havingareplacementplasticwindowsewnin

Having a replacement

plastic window sewn in

You have several options.

• • Sew the window in while the top is still attached to the car (either you or a boat canvas shop)

  • Remove the top and frame as a unit and take it to a top shop that can sew the window in without any further frame disassembly because they have a long arm sewing machine (see picture below)

  • Remove the top and frame and then loosen the rear of the top from the frame so a shop with a short-arm sewing machine can sew in the window.

  • Remove the top and frame and then loosen the rear of the top from the frame and remove the clamping rails and sliders so a shop with a short-arm sewing machine can sew in the window.

Call around, ask on the online forums who has had it done where and get recommendations. That way you will know your options.

Sewing the window in with the top still on

Juniinc wrote up his sewing in of the convertible top window (with the top still on) here:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ic=16350&hl

Removing the top and frame in one piece

(Note that this is for a MY 97 to 99 986, the later Boxsters don't have the exact same location for the B-Pillar Microswitch as that switch was moved to the driver's side transmission [even though the factory manual says it was moved to the passenger's side transmission]).

You can also use these instructions for removing the earlier frame and top assembly if you are lucky enough to come on a good deal on a model year '03-'04 complete top and frame with glass window. The later top fits right on the '97-'02 model year cars. No the 987 model tops and frames don't fit.

1. Put the top in the service mode (if you are not sure how to do this, it's in the owner's manual), and make sure the clamshell is at it highest position (45 degree angle, as far back as possible). Unlatch the black/gray vinyl apron from its two plastic retainers on the rear firewall and pop off the two tension cables from their steel balls at the base of the cables. Now, reaching under the B-pillar round black knuckle at its base, pull off the white plastic cups (maybe red plastic if yours have never been replaced) from the steel balls that they are pressed on to. If you have too much trouble popping those off, you can undo the 10mm bolt (with thick washer) from the middle of the connecting arm that leads to the white plastic cups on one end and the front of the V-lever on the rearmost end of it. Before you undo that bolt, mark the point where the two halves of the connect arm are joined so that you don't have to guess at the correct length later. I have attached a photo, where the white arrow shows the 10mm bolt with thick washer. The yellow arrow shows where you should mark the position of the two halves of the connecting arm. The red circles show two of the three large bolts that must be removed (see step #3 below)

2. Now, from the inside of the passenger compartment (behind the outboard side of the driver's seat), remove the semi-circular carpet-covered plastic trim panel from around the base of the roll bar. This trim panel is attached with an 8mm bolt at the top (just loosen it, you don't have to remove it completely) and there is a phillips screw near the bottom that is well hidden in the carpet covering. The screw is about 6 or 8 inches from the floor and just forward of the firewall. Remove the panel. This will remove the defroster hook up, and you will see the B-pillar microswitch, which must be disconnected from its connector near the floor. There is also a zip-tie that will have to be cut, as the zip-tie holds the wire to the roll-bar.

3. Unbolt the 3 large bolts that are visible on the backside of top frame, looking under the rear of the B-Pillar while the top is in the service mode. Some Boxsters have a plastic box covering these three bolts, and this plastic box comes off with removal of two Phillips screws. The large bolts are self-centering, so it will not be difficult to re-install them in the correct position. The top, with the mechanism attached is still very light, but it is a little bulky, so you might want to have someone help you lift it off.

4. You may find two Phillips screws just ahead of the rearmost large bolt (the first one is visible in the photo indicated by the blue arrow) on each side. Unscrew those Phillips screws and set them aside for later reassembly. You may also have to gently separate the foam liner from the metal bracket that has been pressed on for many years. Proceed carefully to insure that you do not rip, cut, or tear the foam liner.

5. Once the 3 bolts on each side (left and right) have been removed (and the four Phillips screws, two on each side), just slide the top back about one inch and then lift it straight up. If you are not the original owner, note that someone else may have removed the Phillips screws and not replaced them.

Removing the rear of the top from the frame

You can remove the three weatherstrips and pull the entire rear apron of the top away from the frame whether or not the top and frame assembly is fastened onto the car.

See Replacing the TOP - A DIY

For removing the rear apron of the canvas top: paragraph 8

For re-installing the rear apron of the canvas top: paragraph 16

Removing the clamping rails and sliders

Depending on how much access your particular installer needs (depending on the length of the throat of his sewing machine), you may also have to undo the clamping rails and sliders. In that case, you will most likely need a new pair of clamping rails because the receptacles for the push pins that are part of the clamping rails usually break off. The part that breaks is a sort of mushroom piece (that is part of the clamping rail) that accepts the pin.You can definitely re-use the sliders in most instances. If you are very, very careful with pulling the clamping rails apart you can salvage them and re-use them. Clamping Rails have different part numbers depending on which side of the car..986-561-559-01 left and 986-561-560-01 right for -'97-'02 cars.

See Replacing the TOP - A DIY

For removing and re-installing the clamping rails: paragraphs 6, 9 and 14.

Some installers, with the right type of industrial machine, can sew the plastic window in without taking apart either the clamping rail sides or the rear apron of the top. Their machine fits over and under the rear metal bow and can still reach the far edges of the vinyl window. Note how long this sewing machine's arm is.

If you want to avoid all of this extra work, and you don't mind the look of hand-stitching, as opposed to machine stitching, just skip the fancy Porsche convertible top installation shop and find a boat canvas shop. A skilled seamstress (a/k/a boat canvas guy) can easily sew in the vinyl window by hand without you having to separate any part of the canvas top from the frame assembly. You can buy a vinyl window kit on eBay for less than $100 and bring it to the boat canvas shop. You don't have to tell them it's for a Porsche.

Whichever method is used, machine or hand sewing, it's a good idea to use some liquid seam sealer on the stitches. One such product is made by a company called "Cochlan's" and they call it "Water Based Seam Seal".

If you are not ready to spring for a whole new top, and the rest of your top is in good shape, sewing in a new window may be the most sensible way to go. The proper way to sew in (or have a shop sew in) a window is to remove the old window completely by undoing the stitching, separating the canvas and inserting the new window in between the two layers of canvas and then sewing it in.

from Maurice

Mike Focke's Index of Boxster Web Pages

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